The island of Ometepe comprises two volcanoes; Concepción in the north, which is still active, and Maderas in the south which is dormant. The small island has one main road which rings around Concepción, another road which rings around Maderas, and a third road which links the first two.
The main purpose of our visit to Isla Ometepe was to relax for New Years. We had treated ourselves to an Ecolodge which we had paid for months in advance, and it was perfectly secluded up a bumpy dirty track which took about 15 minutes to drive, and almost destroyed the underneath of any car that dared to venture on it. (This began to become a hassle rather than a treat, as if we wanted to leave the hotel to explore the island we had to pay US$8 to get to the main road. It took about 40 minutes to walk the dirt track, which we did on our first night after eating in Balgüe, but decided it was too much effort after a nice meal!). If we were to return, we would definitely stay in accommodation by the main road, even though our lodge was beautiful. Seclusion has its down sides!
All hamlets on the island are built up around the main road. We stayed in a lodge closest to Balgüe (and Santa Cruz), which in recent years has evolved into one of Nicaragua’s prime destinations for tourism. The best way to get around the island is by bike. It is a long walk between most hamlets, with just farmland and residential areas between the more built up areas.
As it was New Year’s Eve, we only found one restaurant open in Balgüe, which was Cafe Comprende. The meal was lovely, but the restaurant was probably suffering a little from the influx of hungry travellers, it being the only place open. We had heard good things about an Argentinian steakhouse called El Bamboo down the road, but this was closed during our stay. After our hike back to the hotel, we had a drink in the quiet hotel bar and played some games. Without a big party, we simply enjoyed the reclusiveness of the lodge, before watching fireworks across the lake from our patio at midnight.
The next day we got a taxi to Ojo de Agua (“the eye of the water”) – a small swimming hole which was about a 20 minute cab journey away. We would have got the bus from the main road, but being the holidays, it wasn’t running! We paid US$15 to get there and then US$5 each to get in. The hole was beautiful but busy with locals enjoying the sunshine. It would be nice to return on a quieter day to experience the relaxing pool and enjoy a Toña or two by the waterside.
We decided to walk back to our hotel, and this took around two hours, but included a beachside walk, and then a stop in a bar in Santa Cruz for a beer during a sudden downpour.
Other possible activities that we decided not to do during our stay included horseback riding, kayaking on Lake Nicaragua or (for the very adventurous!) a climb up the dormant volcano. Ometepe certainly has its fill of possibilities and many different areas to explore. We chose a relaxing few days, especially in light of our adventures in Granada which was the next stop on the itinerary!